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I would recomend a bearded dragon because they are very docile and only nip when feel very threatened.
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Even though many people needlessly fear them, snakes are by far the easiest of the reptiles to care for. Most lizards, while often more intelligent and personable than snakes, do have specialized needs that can sometimes be difficult or expensive to meet, and without those needs being met, the animal will die. With the exception of nocturnal(night-active)lizards like Crested Geckos, lizards all require specialized UVB lighting in order to metabolize Vitamin D and calcium in their diets, and will also require dietary supplements added to their food. Most will require additional heat lighting for basking, since many of the pet lizards available are native to either desert or tropical regions that experience high daily temperatures. This special lighting can be expensive, and bulbs tend to burn out quickly, making frequent replacement necessary. Turtles also require this lighting, as do tortoises, and aquatic turtles must have access to clean fresh water, which means a filtration system is required. Under NO circumstance should Iguanas be considered good beginner reptile pets!! Iguanas have very highly specialized dietary needs as well as lighting needs, and adult iguanas reach huge sizes, which means they have to have huge enclosures. Adult male iguanas can reach lengths of over six feet, and are heavily-built, powerful animals that often develop dominance issues when they mature, which can lead to aggression. Don't let anyone tell you that iguanas don't have teeth; they do, and they can bite, which can cause severe injuries. Iguanas are definitely for experienced reptile owners ONLY! I've kept them, and even though I have nearly 40 years of reptile-keeping experience, I still find that Iguanas are too much work and too much difficulty for ME, in spite of my experience. When getting ANY pet, always consider what that animal will look like and ACT like when it's fully grown, since many pet animals are available as cute little babies. If you can't deal with a 30-pound, six-foot long lizard with inch-long claws, that eats and poops a couple of pounds per day, requires an enclosure large enough for YOU to walk in, with expensive specialized UVB and heat lights, that might decide one day that you are a territorial rival to be taken out, DO NOT get an iguana!
Some tropical snakes, like most Boas and Pythons, will require either a heat lamp or undertank heat pad, but most native snakes, like Corns and King Snakes, do not. They can live comfortably at normal household room temperatures. Snakes that stay under six feet in length are easiest to handle. Make sure that the food items required for a snake, or ANY pet, are always readily available in your area. Most snakes will eat rodents, such as mice or rats, and you can order pre-killed frozen rodents online or sometimes purchase these from pet stores. If at all possible, avoid feeding live prey, since rodents can actually attack and seriously injure a snake, or even kill it. Corn Snakes, King Snakes, most Rat Snakes, Milk Snakes, Gopher Snakes and some small Pythons, like Spotted, Children's, or Savu Pythons, as well as Rosy Boas, all stay reasonably-sized and are rodent feeders. Be careful with Ball Pythons; if you want one, get a guarantee that it is captive-bred and is feeding with regularity on mice or rats, since many pet stores sell wild-caught imported Ball Pythons that simply refuse to eat in captivity. Large constrictors, like Common and Red-Tail Boas, Burmese and Reticulated Pythons, should be left to more experienced reptile keepers. If you do not want a snake that eats rodents, then consider one of the colorful Garter Snakes or Water Snakes, which are fish eaters, and can often be conditioned to eat strips of fresh Salmon or Tilapia from the supermarket meat counter. If you're still set on a lizard, then the lizards which require the least amount of hassle are the Crested Geckos, Leopard Geckos, and Fat-Tailed Geckos. Bearded Dragons are sweet, gentle animals, but they do have special heat and lighting requirements and a large enclosure. Lizards do eat a lot more than snakes, which means they poop more, too, so you will have to do a lot more cleaning up after them.
Again, if you buy a young animal, do your research and find out how big it will get, and decide whether you will have the space and time for it when it reaches adulthood. A lot of animals, sadly, are abandoned when they grow up because the people who got them were not prepared for how big they'd be or how much work it would take to keep them.
Some tropical snakes, like most Boas and Pythons, will require either a heat lamp or undertank heat pad, but most native snakes, like Corns and King Snakes, do not. They can live comfortably at normal household room temperatures. Snakes that stay under six feet in length are easiest to handle. Make sure that the food items required for a snake, or ANY pet, are always readily available in your area. Most snakes will eat rodents, such as mice or rats, and you can order pre-killed frozen rodents online or sometimes purchase these from pet stores. If at all possible, avoid feeding live prey, since rodents can actually attack and seriously injure a snake, or even kill it. Corn Snakes, King Snakes, most Rat Snakes, Milk Snakes, Gopher Snakes and some small Pythons, like Spotted, Children's, or Savu Pythons, as well as Rosy Boas, all stay reasonably-sized and are rodent feeders. Be careful with Ball Pythons; if you want one, get a guarantee that it is captive-bred and is feeding with regularity on mice or rats, since many pet stores sell wild-caught imported Ball Pythons that simply refuse to eat in captivity. Large constrictors, like Common and Red-Tail Boas, Burmese and Reticulated Pythons, should be left to more experienced reptile keepers. If you do not want a snake that eats rodents, then consider one of the colorful Garter Snakes or Water Snakes, which are fish eaters, and can often be conditioned to eat strips of fresh Salmon or Tilapia from the supermarket meat counter. If you're still set on a lizard, then the lizards which require the least amount of hassle are the Crested Geckos, Leopard Geckos, and Fat-Tailed Geckos. Bearded Dragons are sweet, gentle animals, but they do have special heat and lighting requirements and a large enclosure. Lizards do eat a lot more than snakes, which means they poop more, too, so you will have to do a lot more cleaning up after them.
Again, if you buy a young animal, do your research and find out how big it will get, and decide whether you will have the space and time for it when it reaches adulthood. A lot of animals, sadly, are abandoned when they grow up because the people who got them were not prepared for how big they'd be or how much work it would take to keep them.
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I would recommend a Kenyan sand boa. If you are looking for a reptile that is small they only reach to 2 feet maybe 3 feet if its a female and they are very docile and has very easy maintenance I would say a Kenyan Sand Boa is perfect for you and they have a very pretty color pattern! They are around 30$ to 100$. When they are little they eat once a week and eat pinkie mice when they get older they will eat fuzzies and when they are adults you can feed them hoppers. Another Reptile that I would recommend would be the ball python. Ball pythons are also very docile and they will get to 5 feet maybe 6 or 7 feet depending on the gender and how much you feed it. They have higher maintenance then sand boas you need a bigger heat source and you need to give them enough humidity so that they stay hydrated. They have alot of colors to choose from depending on the breed of ball python the cheapest would probably be a normal ball python which ranges from 20$ to 120$ I hope you find the reptile that you are looking for and you enjoy it! Reptiles are very exotic and beautiful creatures!
Reptile owner and breeder
Reptile owner and breeder
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