What Are The Origins Of Surfing?

Some persons believe that it was in the southern Pacific islands near Tahiti that surfing had its origin. Later, migrants from that area settled in the Hawaiian Islands, where surfing became a highly developed and respected skill. Hawaiian royalty especially became expert in the sport; in fact, training in the art of surfing was part of a young chief's upbringing.
In 1778, when the British ship under Captain James Cook first spied out these islands, natives were seen riding huge waves on surfboards. Their maneuverability amazed the newcomers. One eyewitness said: "The boldness and address with which I saw them perform these difficult and dangerous maneuvers was altogether astonishing and is scarcely to be believed."
Early Hawaiians used small light boards that could be easily turned and ridden at an angle across the face of the unbroken wave, much as modern surfers do. But larger, less maneuverable boards were also used, particularly by Hawaiian royalty. On display at the Bishop Museum in Honolulu is the board used in the 1830's by the Hawaiian chief Paki. It is nearly sixteen feet long and weighs about 160 pounds.
Surfing was a part of early Hawaiian life. Observers called it their "national pastime" and "favourite amusement." However, this all soon changed after the arrival of Calvinist missionaries in the early part of the nineteenth century. The missionaries discouraged the traditional ways and habits of the natives, including surfing. Surfing became practically a lost art.