How Do I Go About Beading A Picture On A Bead Loom?
I want to learn how to bead a picture.
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I wonder why this is in the "photography" area.
First, determine what color range of beads you have available in a single size.
Decide whether you will use a through-the-beads-twice method or a double-twisted warp. It makes a slight difference on the height x width beadcount.
Decide whether you'll use beadwork software or hand-draft your pattern. One method is to print a bead-scale grid on transparent plastic and place it over the picture or drawing which you wish to convert to beadwork.
If you're using software, follow the chart. If you're hand-drafting, create your chart and then follow it.
I prefer the twisted warp method and use weaver's cards in conjunction with fishing swivels for the warp-twisting. I use the finest thread that's of suitable weight when doubled. No matter what one does, it will be doubled through the needle's eye so I just use doubled entirely for the woof (which holds the beads).
If the warp is spaced with a spring, stretch and position the spring so the warp will fit the chosen beads. It won't be the same for #14 as it would be for #10.
Keep your tension even rather than snug. Black beads are often physically smaller than white beads in the same nominal size. Avoid over-tightening.
I load one row of beads at a time, whether I'm doing twisted warp or more usual methods. With the more usual methods, I position the beads *under* the warp and then press them upward, the better to assure the woof will go completely over and completely under the warp, rather than accidently missing and have semi-loose sections.
First, determine what color range of beads you have available in a single size.
Decide whether you will use a through-the-beads-twice method or a double-twisted warp. It makes a slight difference on the height x width beadcount.
Decide whether you'll use beadwork software or hand-draft your pattern. One method is to print a bead-scale grid on transparent plastic and place it over the picture or drawing which you wish to convert to beadwork.
If you're using software, follow the chart. If you're hand-drafting, create your chart and then follow it.
I prefer the twisted warp method and use weaver's cards in conjunction with fishing swivels for the warp-twisting. I use the finest thread that's of suitable weight when doubled. No matter what one does, it will be doubled through the needle's eye so I just use doubled entirely for the woof (which holds the beads).
If the warp is spaced with a spring, stretch and position the spring so the warp will fit the chosen beads. It won't be the same for #14 as it would be for #10.
Keep your tension even rather than snug. Black beads are often physically smaller than white beads in the same nominal size. Avoid over-tightening.
I load one row of beads at a time, whether I'm doing twisted warp or more usual methods. With the more usual methods, I position the beads *under* the warp and then press them upward, the better to assure the woof will go completely over and completely under the warp, rather than accidently missing and have semi-loose sections.
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