How Do I Change The Fork Seals On A 2004 Ktm250 Sx?

It isn't that hard. You can tap or pry them out fairly easily

Kit

1 - Fork seal driver. This need to have the same internal diameter as your fork seal. This can be found on the top of the seal.

2 - An inner rod release tool. This is basically inserted into the fork and looks like a very long rod with a hex shaped end. This will be model dependent so refer to your dealership for the one you need.

Firstly be very careful!  The task is messy and can be very dangerous. But if you follow these steps and take your time you'll be fine.


1 - Before you slacken off your fork retaining screws on the Yokes  loosen the top bolt, but DO NOT remove it.

4 - Loosen retainer bolts, remove fork tube from yoke.

5 -  You must release the top bolt slowly and carefully, do not position any part of your body over the top of the fork tube. SLOWLY, applying downward pressure on the top of the bolt, rotate the bolt anti-clockwise. You will feel the spring try to push upwards, so point the fork away from you in a safe direction, . Once the bolt is off remove the spacer and spring.

6 - Empty the fork of it's old oil.

7 -  Wrap the fork housing, not the frok tube, in  a rag and place it in the vice. Then insert the inner rod release tool into the fork tube, and the correct sized allen key head for the retainer bolt. You may need a long shafted key as you will have to go through the bottom of the housing to get to the bolt. Loosen off and remove the bolt whilst holding the inner rod tool firm with a spanner. Discard the old washer.

8 - The inner rod should be removed. If the forks are adjustable  remove the adjuster bolt enough to get free play of the fork tube.

9 - Inspect the surface of the fork for any pitting. If pitting is present you will need it to be re-chromed, loads of firms do it.

10 - Remove the dust cover and retainer in from the top of the fork housing so that your left with the old seal in place. Place a block of wood between your feet, then place the bottom of the fork housing on this and grip with your feet. Pump the fork tube up and down sharply. This will bring the old seal out.

11 - Lubricate the new seal with fork oil both inside and out, place the fork back on the block of wood, push the seal down into the housing as far as it will go. Using the Fork Seal Driver bang the seal into place. Replace the circlip, dust cover, and adjustment bolt.

12 - Wrap the housing in the rag and replace back in the vice. Insert the inner rod, and with the bolt and new washer connect the two, using the inner rod tool to keep the inner rod still whilst you tighten the retainer bolt to the correct torque setting.

13 -  Now draw the fork tube upwards to its fullest extent and fill slowly with the correct amount of fork oil (ml). Whilst filling pump the fork tube to enable the oil to fill the interior . If the oil is a measured amount in millimeters find out how far it should be measured from the top of the fork tube and mark the position on the metal ruler with the tape. The measurement is reached with the fork tube fully extended, and a layer of oil is on the bottom of the ruler.

14 - Replace the top bolt o ring and insert the fork spring and spacer into the tube. You will need to push down carefully at this point. The best way to get all this back into the tube is to hold the spring, spacer and bolt in one hand and slowly depress. Once the top bolt reaches the thread slowly screw into place with the palm of your hand whilst exerting downwards pressure, then hand tighten the top bolt with the correct socket.

15 - Replace fork into housing. Tighten and torque yoke retaining pins.  Now tighten the top bolt to the correct torque setting.

16 - Stand back, feel justly proud of your work and remember it will be easier and quicker next time.

I hope this helps. If in doubt let the professionals do it, and remember don't force anything or cut corners (Grief I sound like my old man), and always take a step back if something is trying your patience.